Aran Islands. Inis Meáin

Inis Meáin  – where to begin?  The unspoilt and windswept plains? The craggy wildflower dotted cliffs?  Or the cultural heritage, which inspired some of Ireland’s most notable writers?  Inis Meáin, the middle of the three Aran Islands, is located 15 miles off the west coast of Ireland just across the Galway Bay. With only 200 inhabitants and spanning just 3 miles, traditions in farming, fishing, sport and music are still held dear.

Inis Meáin is an inspiring destination.  The middle island is the least visited of the three, instilling a sense of timelessness.  The wild landscape, divided by hundreds of miles of rough stone walls, is often covered in a mist; views over the surging sea are broken only by the other Aran Islands in the distance.  The people of Inis Meáin have often been credited for their sensibility, intellect and virtues. Life here is untouched and unique, filled with the pleasures of simple traditions, or to quote Irish author Breandán Ó hEithir “The island was different and always had been.”

The island still maintains many charming mores, such as the annual St. Patrick’s Day game of ‘cead’.  Cead is only played on Inis Meáin by the local men – nowhere else in Ireland and certainly nowhere else in the world.  The men gear up for the St. Patrick’s Day game by carving long wooden bats and ‘ceads’, a small wooden tube.  To begin the game captains are chosen from last years winning team.  Captains choose players, based on assumptions of skill, since practice throughout the year is frowned upon.  Over the course of the next four hours the players hit the ceads various distances to score points.

After the game locals head to the pub to celebrate their triumph, bemoan defeat, discuss plays, and rehash critical moments.  Victory is celebrated by filling the World Cup with a hearty alcoholic concoction, served only on St. Patrick’s Day.  This very World Cup can be seen in the islands only pub – Osta Inis Meáin – year-round engraved with the local names of past winners.

White Line Hotel Inis Meaín takes the same name as the island and keeps the spirit of the island close in the concept.  Hospitality, genuineness and simplicity are at the heart of the hotel.  Designed by de Blacam & Meagher, the hotel is inspired by surrounding scenery.  The owners, chef Ruairí de Blacam (born and raised on Inis Meáin) and his wife designer Marie-Thérèse, have combined this old world approach with modern luxuries in the four suites.  Each suite has a northerly view of the island and bay, breakfast is delivered to the rooms, and soft uncluttered textures complete the atmosphere of retreat and relaxation.

The rich literary history of Inis Meáin will be covered in part II of this post.

Booking in advance is essential, Inis Meáin’s 4 suites book out well in advance.  The season runs from April to September. Anyone quoting White Line Hotels when booking a suite will be shouted a couple of pints of Guinness in the Osta Inis Meáin.

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Breandán Ó hEithir quote from “The mystery of Inis Meáin” by Colm Tóibín in The Guardian on 12 May 2007.

Category: Aran Islands – Ireland

Contributing writer: Alicia Reuter