Venice. The Real Thing

It’s hard to think about relaxing in Italy without envisioning the epicurean delights the country offers. If you’re not seasoned in the miniscule differences between the tourists joints and the real thing, it’s easy to walk away wondering what all the fuss is about and feeling like you just unloaded your wallet for a reheated pizza and discount grocery store wine.

In a city like Venice, which often feels like it’s surrendered itself to tourists, the real thing is can be even harder to find. Luckily we got the scoop from a Venetian about where to go for traditional eats at prices even the locals will pay.

The only way to start any evening in Italy is with an apertivo, a glass of wine or prosecco and some finger foods with friends or colleagues, meant to open the palate. Luckily, one of the best in Venice, Al Bottegon, is just steps from Ca’ Pisani Hotel in the Dorsoduro Sestieri. Mingling with locals while nibbling cichetti (think tapas, Italian style) is a delightful way to slip from dusk into the Venetian night. At heart Al Bottegon, is really a bacari (wine bar), so feel free to ask for recommendations for a glass or a bottle to take with you. We recommend the Fragolino, a rare sweet wine made from Concord grapes.

Now that you’ve whetted your palate, it’s time to sit down to several courses of Venetian specialties. Walk off the Fragolino and head towards Canneregio, passing through San Marco and weaving through the shopping masses. Detour around the Rialto Bridge (but don’t cross it) and up and down the footbridges to Alla Vedova, just off the Strada Nova. Alla Vedova’s official name is Ca’ D’Oro Alla Vedova, but that’s just for tourists. It’s best to book ahead for dinner, however eating at the bar with locals has its advantages. The restaurant has been family run for generations and local specialties such as black cuttle fish polenta or the house speciality polpette (meatballs) are on the uncomplicated but enticing menu.

Heading back to White Line’s Ca’ Pisani Hotel is easy by vaporetto – just hop on at the Ca’D'Oro stop and take the number 1 line to the Accademia, you’ll have a lovely evening tour of the Canale Grande along the way. If your post dinner grappa has left you with a desire to explore, wandering the quieted streets of Venice is a romantic and gratifying experience.

After all that walking you’ll embrace the luxury of Ca’ Pisani, owned by the Serandrei family of hoteliers, who maintained the sense of the 14th century Palace while adding a stylish 1940′s and 50′s twist. You’ll be staying in an atmosphere of Venetian culture, with original artworks by Fortunato Depero and Ugo Sissa. After losing yourself in the winding streets of Venice relaxing in the steam room or a full cardio workout in the fitness centre will rejuvenate you, before sinking into dreams of masked balls of in one of Ca’Pisani’s lavish rooms.

If you’re going in early May, be sure to check out the Vogalonga, when 2000 rowers descend into the waters of the Canale Grande for a 32 kilometre long race. Although the race is non competitive, the worlds best rowers make up the participants.

Al Bottegon can be found at Fondamenta Nani, Venice, Italy and Alla Vedova is at Calle del Pistor 3912 in Canneregio.

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Categories: Venice, Food

Contributing writer: Alicia Reuter